Talofa! I Lived In Tokelau For Two Years, Just...

Fakaofu, New Zealand

Talofa! I lived in Tokelau for two years, just 500 villagers in each of the three villages on the three atolls: best place in the world, only ten tourists a year, no cars, no dogs, no guns, there was then (1992-1994) no phones and no e-mail. But today, e-mail and phones are there. Highest mountain is 5 metres on each atoll - these are low-lying coral atolls (rims of ancient volcanos). Sea level rise is an issue, so come quick! At low tide, you can run or walk around the each atoll (Fakaofu, Atafu and Nukunonu atolls) - errr, allow some time to swim or wade between some of the 40 islets (motu) on each atoll. Allow all day about 10 km for each atoll. A run is often done for rugby fitness or as a walkathon/runathon. Fantastic people, fantastic scenery, fantastic cooks, plenty of coconuts along the way to drink and eat, you just catch a fish in the shallows (with a well aimed rock) and eat it raw with your coconut (while you wallow in the warm azure lagoons beneath swaying coconut trees, papaya trees and copious amounts of sunshine). Now, that's running! And if you don't want to get your feet wet, all the fitness fanatics in each village just run around or through their village, from one end of their motu to the other end. I used to walk off each evening to the very ends, sit on the beach, watch the sun setting, and then stroll home - allow 10-15 minutes. This must be repeated each morning!!! Running up coconut palms??? Yes, plenty of competitions (and laughs). Plenty of cricket as well - the whole village plays. And if you need more information, your boat to Tokelau Atolls leaves Apia in nearby Samoa Islands (480 km to the South) every 2-3-4-5 weeks, returning 5 days later (contact Steve Brown, www.ecotoursamoa.com or steve@ecotoursamoa.com, member Apia Hash House Harriers).